CLIMBING WALL SUPERVISORS AWARD

Introduction

The national entry-level award for supervising groups at a climbing wall is the Single Pitch Award (SPA). Created in 1992, there are currently 8533 SPA holders, and of all Mountain Leader Training's awards the SPA is the most 'visual': there is often an assumption that a supervised novice group operating at a wall or crag is under the charge of an SPA holder. Investigation of complaints and accidents shows that this is often not the case.

Since the SPA's inception, the number of climbing walls in the UK has grown rapidly. These are not only public walls, but also small, private walls in schools, activity centres and other locations. This growth has led to calls for a 'wall supervisor award' from various quarters.

Mountain Leader Training UK published National Guidelines on mountaineering activities in 1991.  The revised edition, published in 2005, clearly endorses in house training as an alternative to gaining a national qualification and this solution has been adopted by many climbing walls to ensure the competence of staff and group leaders. In 1998 Mountain Leader Training England produced a set of 'Climbing Wall Guidance Notes', which later became a booklet on 'How to structure and operate a site-specific climbing wall supervisor scheme' and these notes have been widely used. Mountain leader Training Northern Ireland has recently developed a wall supervisors' award scheme for its three public walls and feedback from this project has helped MLT to further develop its views on the issue of accrediting climbing wall supervisors.

In December 2001 the BMC organised a Voluntary Leaders Conference in Birmingham, and there were vocal calls for further investigation leading to the development of a qualification. A paper was produced for its Training Advisory Group, who discussed the issue in November 2002 and concluded that before proceeding, a transparent consultation process was necessary.

Initial consultations have been in favour of an award but there has been considerable debate about the form and content of a national scheme. MLTUK developed three models initially, a single national award, accredited site specific validation and national core competencies with a local or regional remit.  It was concluded that the first option of a single national scheme was most manageable and a model Climbing Wall Supervisor Award has been developed by staff within Mountain Leader Training. Stakeholders within the Mountain Leader Training organisations and the public at large are now being consulted as to whether this model fits their particular needs and if not to provide comments on alternative systems. Discussions will then proceed within MLT to evaluate the responses and to determine whether there is a consensus on the need for an award, the level at which it should be set and the system for training and assessing candidates.

John Cousins 14/3/06

DRAFT REMIT, SYLLABUS AND PROSPECTUS

1    REMIT

1.1  The scheme is for climbers who are in a position of responsibility when supervising climbing activities on indoor or outdoor climbing walls and towers. It is primarily concerned with good practice, leading to the safe enjoyment of these activities and to the understanding of the sport. It covers the leading, supervising and management of climbing activities such as bouldering, the teaching of basic movement skills and roped climbing (excluding the teaching of leading). Completion of a training course alone, without passing the assessment course, is not a qualification in itself, although it may be of considerable personal benefit to the trainee.

1.2 This scheme has been designed to provide a level of basic competence for those who are in a position of responsibility during climbing activities at walls. Whilst the award does include a measure of personal competence it is not designed as such, and should not be used as either an entry requirement or measure of suitability for individuals who wish to climb on climbing walls.

1.3 It is valid throughout the UK and the Republic of Ireland.

1.4 For the purposes of this scheme, a climbing wall is:

• An artificial structure, designed for the purpose of being used for climbing activities (this includes towers and mobile climbing walls)
• Indoors or outdoors

It will be the responsibility of the employer or organising authority to develop management strategies for the employment of Award Holders.

1.5 It is the duty of the employer or organising authority to decide whether a

Supervisor possesses the personal attributes needed to take responsibility for the care of young people and beginners and for ensuring that Child Protection requirements are met.

1.6 It is the combination of technical skills, wide experience and personal qualities that form the basis for effective supervision. This scheme assesses the technical skills and experience; the employer or organising authority must gauge the personal qualities.

1.7 The scheme does not cover:

• General rock climbing skills, such as those needed to climb and / or supervise others on natural crags (these are covered in the Single Pitch Award scheme)
• Supervising abseiling1
• Multi-pitch rock climbing skills
• The Teaching, or supervision, of leading
• The gauging of candidate's personal qualities
• A Criminal Records Bureau check

1.7 If you are in doubt about a particular venue then members of the Association of Mountaineering Instructors or the British Mountain Guides or the officers of Mountain Leader Training are the appropriate people to approach for advice.

2    PROSPECTUS

2.1 INTRODUCTION

To be inserted

2.2 STAGES IN THE SCHEME

The scheme comprises:

• Registration (with MLTE / NI / S / W), joining a mountaineering council or an affiliated mountaineering or climbing club and being issued with a logbook
• Fulfil minimum requirements
• Minimum two day (16 hours) training course
• Consolidation period between training and assessment
• Minimum one-day (8 hours) assessment course
• Continuing experience entered in logbook

2.3 REGISTRATION

Candidates wishing to register with the Award should:

• Have a genuine interest in rock climbing and the supervision of groups on climbing walls
• Have at least 6 months experience of using climbing walls.
• Be not less than 18 years of age at the date of registration
• Be an individual or club member (of an affiliated club) of a Mountaineering Council

Candidates should allow fifteen working days for their application to be processed and returned.

On receipt of the registration form and appropriate fee, MLTE / NI / S / W will issue a logbook. Candidates' personal details will be recorded and progression through the scheme will be detailed on the MLTUK Database.

2.4 TRAINING

Before attending a training course, candidates must

• Be registered with the Climbing Wall Supervisors Award (CWSA) (see 1.4 above).
• Have at least 6 months climbing experience and have climbed on walls on at least 15 different occasions at three different walls, including a public wall.
• Have led routes.
• Have an understanding of the wider sport and perhaps have climbed outdoors.

Training courses are run by approved providers (full list available from MLTE / NI / S / W) and are at least two days long (16 hours contact time). Training courses run with a minimum of four candidates and a maximum of twelve. The maximum trainer/candidate ratio is 1:6. Larger courses have dual benefits: the varied experience of the candidates enables an individual to have a better chance of seeing how their own skills compare and they also get the opinion of two trainers.

The training course is for potential supervisors and group leaders and assumes basic competence as a climber with experience of leading climbs (see Experience Requirements). It will emphasise those skills which candidates might have difficulty in learning without expert guidance. A few minor aspects of the syllabus may not be covered during the training course and candidates are expected to deal with these items themselves.

The Director of Training will give oral comments to each candidate and will endorse the training course report page of the logbook with comments about the programme, walls used and situations encountered. Candidates will receive individual recommendations for the consolidation period. The training course does not involve any written reports concerning the performance or standard of candidates. An approved sticker will be put on the endorsement page of the logbook by the Director of Training and will show the date and course provider number specific to your trainer. In exceptional circumstances it may be possible to register on, or immediately after, the course, but the trainer is obliged to submit a report to MLTE / NI / S / W containing all registered candidates' details within 30 days.

Candidates are encouraged to use the skills checklist in the logbook to evaluate their current skills and to plan, with their trainers, their particular route towards assessment.

2.5 LOGBOOK

Experience gained by candidates should be recorded in the logbook. Entries should be concise, easily read and should include all rock climbing and other relevant experience.

The logbook is divided into five sections:

• Personal details, contents and endorsement pages
• Course reports and personal profile
• Personal and group leading/supervising experience
• Experience requirements, definitions, sample pages and skills checklist
• Additional training information

The logbook is designed to help you demonstrate your previous experience to others. You must fill it in before a training course to enable the trainers to discuss your particular needs and to agree which areas of the syllabus you need to concentrate on before taking an assessment. Few of us can remember every detail of every occasion that we have gone climbing or visited a climbing wall, but this is no reason to avoid using the logbook. List examples of the variety of experiences you have gained and give details of the most notable (or exciting) sessions. The information you give does not have to be verified by a third party but will form the basis for discussion at training and assessment.

2.6 CONSOLIDATION PERIOD

Candidates will generally see many new ideas and techniques during training and will therefore need some time to practise and evaluate these before taking the assessment. During this period of consolidation, candidates are advised to climb at as wide a range of venues as possible, both as an individual and when assisting the supervision of others.  MLTE / NI / S / W recommend that all but the most experienced candidates allow a minimum of three months between training and assessment. There is currently no time limit on the validity of a training course and some candidates may take several years to complete the award.

2.7 ASSESSMENT

Before attending an assessment course, candidates should:

• Have registered
• Have attended a training course or been granted exemption from training
• Have gained further experience (see Experience Requirements)
• Be proficient in the use of climbing walls
• Have recorded a minimum of 30 visits to at least three different climbing walls
• Additionally have assisted a SPA holder (or higher award) on at least 15 instructed sessions on at least two different walls. 
• Hold a valid First Aid Certificate

During the assessment course, candidates will be tested in accordance with the syllabus requirements. The assessment is run by approved providers.

Assessors work on a ratio of 1:4 (minimum 1:2). The overall course size can range from two candidates to eight. Larger courses have dual benefits: the varied experience of the candidates provides individuals with better opportunities for comparing skills whilst ensuring that each candidate receives the opinion of two assessors.

The Director of Assessment will endorse the logbook in one of three ways:

PASS: where satisfactory knowledge and application of the syllabus and the necessary experience, skills, knowledge and attributes were demonstrated.

DEFER: where the performance was generally up to standard but complete proficiency was not attained in some aspects of the syllabus. Some form of re-assessment will be required.

FAIL: where the performance has been generally weak, or the necessary experience and attributes have not been shown. Further training may be recommended before another complete assessment is taken.

In all cases the result will be discussed with you and recorded in your logbook (the page is inserted by the course provider/director). Candidates who are deferred or failed will receive specific written feedback, including an action plan. This will include the reasons for the result, recommendations on the additional experience needed and details of the timing and format for subsequent re-assessment.

In considering the decision of the assessors, candidates are asked to listen to all elements of the final interview and wherever possible to raise any concerns at that time. If, on reflection, the discussion and the written report do not fit your impression of the assessment and your performance, then contact the course provider/director for additional clarification, in writing if necessary.

2.8 EXEMPTION

Experienced climbers who already have substantial personal climbing experience and experience of supervising groups on climbing walls may apply to MLTE / NI / S / W to be exempted from attendance at a training course. There is no exemption from assessment.

Before applying for exemption, candidates should consider the following points:

• The training course is not a personal skills climbing course. It introduces candidates to the skills necessary for supervising novices on climbing walls.
• It includes material that might be unfamiliar even to experienced climbers

Candidates applying for exemption should:

• Be registered with the scheme
• Complete an exemption application form
• Submit a copy of the completed logbook experience pages with the exemption application form and fee to MLTE / NI / S / W

Exemption application forms and details of fees are available on request from MLTE / NI / S / W

2.9 EQUAL OPPORTUNITIES

Mountain Leader Training is committed to promoting equal opportunities for all participants in climbing and mountaineering. Candidates, trainers and assessors should express a positive attitude towards equal opportunities and act as positive role models.

2.10 FIRST AID

First Aid is an essential skill and the Climbing Wall Supervisor assessment requires a current first aid qualification.  The minimum requirement is that such a course must involve at least two full days or sixteen hours of training, include an element of assessment and cover basic life support and emergency aid.  It is the responsibility of award holders and/or their employers to evaluate their likely role and the type of situations that they can reasonably expect to encounter and to maintain current appropriate first aid training and qualifications.

2.11 APPEALS PROCEDURE

If a candidate feels that they have not been fairly dealt with on a course:

• They should make contact with the course Provider, explaining any concerns and seeking clarification.
• If this does not resolve matters the next step is to contact the Secretary of the relevant Training Board for advice.

Details of the complete Appeals Procedure may be obtained from the Secretary of the relevant Training Board.

3    SYLLABUS

3.1 TECHNICAL COMPETENCE

Candidates must demonstrate competence in the following areas:

3.1.1     Equipment

• Identify equipment suitable for personal and group use at a given climbing wall
• Demonstrate an ability to evaluate the condition of equipment and ensure appropriate care and maintenance
• Demonstrate the ability to use climbing wall equipment appropriately

3.1.2     Belaying

• Connect self and others to the rope
• Set up sound belay systems to single and multiple anchors at the top of a climbing wall
• Attach self to the belay system
• Demonstrate the use of direct and indirect belays
• Use a variety of different belay techniques/devices competently and choose the most appropriate for a given situation
• Set up top and bottom rope systems and choose the most appropriate system for a given situation
• Hold falls and carry out lowers

3.1.3     Personal Climbing Skills

• Choose and lead routes suited to personal ability
• Move with confidence on appropriate climbs
• Demonstrate a basic understanding of the safety chain and fall factors

3.1.4     Background Knowledge

Demonstrate an understanding of:

• The history, traditions and ethics of UK rock climbing
• The Home Nation Training Boards and MLTUK
• The club system and the Mountaineering Councils
• Competition climbing

3.2  THE CLIMBING WALL ENVIRONMENT

Candidates must demonstrate competence in the following areas:

3.2.1     Using Climbing Walls

• Interpret and use effectively the information given at walls and other sources of information
• Show an awareness of, and ability to obtain information on and ability to comply with, locally important rules and regulations
• Access climbing walls for personal use

3.2.2     Etiquette

* Demonstrate an awareness of responsibilities to the general public, including other facility users and the climbing community

* Operate a flexible programme of activities so as to accommodate other site users

* Be aware of the hazards presented to other site users by the actions of a group, and act to minimise these

* Demonstrate an awareness of the site-specific requirements and agreements relating to different climbing walls and artificial structures

3.3  SUPERVISION

Candidates must demonstrate competence in the following areas:

3.3.1     Organisation

• Plan a sessions programme of activities
• Assess the abilities and objectives of the group participating in this plan
• Check underlying aims and the objectives of the event
• Demonstrate an awareness of responsibility to any authorising organisation, parents, individual group members, the group as a whole and other site users
• Demonstrate an understanding of the impact of weather on climbing, if appropriate
• Have built-in flexibility when planning activities in order to respond to changing circumstances
• Know how to call for expert help in the case of an accident or injury
• 

3.3.2     Movement Skills

• Demonstrate the use of bouldering activities with groups, including using appropriate games and activities, including setting simple boulder problems
• Demonstrate an understanding of warming up and injury avoidance techniques
• Understand the needs of those with physical and mental disabilities and medical conditions
• Coach basic climbing skills

3.3.3     Group Management

• Know a range of appropriate group management strategies and techniques and use them effectively
• Demonstrate the safe and responsible management of all group members irrespective of whether or not they are directly involved in the climbing activity
• Brief individuals and the group appropriately
• Manage the individuals and the group effectively by:

  - Good communication skills

  - Setting and reviewing targets

  - Identifying and reacting to the needs of the group in relation to involvement, interest, enjoyment and achievement

• Supervise a group of novice climbers belaying
• Manage time appropriately in relation to the plan, activity and conditions

3.3.4     Supervising the Session

• Issue appropriate rock climbing equipment and check correct fitting and use
• Deliver technical instruction to individuals and the group including:

  - Choice and fitting of suitable harnesses

  - Attaching the rope to the harness

  - Advice, demonstration and coaching on climbing movement

  - Demonstration of effective use of chosen belay device

• Demonstrate an understanding of how to avoid common problems such as a stuck climber

3.3.5 Personal Safety

Throughout any training or assessment course there will inevitably be times when all or some of the party will be operating from, or near the top of, the wall. Trainers must ensure that all the candidates are comfortable with the situation they are placed in, and offer guidance and training in how to protect them appropriately. This should be ongoing throughout the course, bearing in mind the varied locations and may need to take into consideration the weather and prevailing conditions.