Draft Standards

This has now been finalised as the document below, and will be printed during 2007.Please click the link below to access the file.

Final version of Standards from April 2007	Adobe pdf document
Approvals to date for Training Standards	Adobe pdf document

You can follow this link to the UIAA website

Working Group Meeting, April 13th 2007

The Group met as part of a UIAA Mountaineering Commission meeting in Bled, Slovenia. A report on this meeting is abvailable here:

Our hosts, the Alpine Association of Slovenia (PZS) gave a fascinating presentation about the structure of leader training in Slovenia and after the formal meeting various members of the Mountaineering Commission and its two working groups (Training Standards and International Law) were able to sample either climbing, trekking or ski mountaineering in the surrounding countryside.

Ice climbing Instructors Course in Quebec, 1-10 February 2007

Congratulations are due to ENEQ after an inspection by the UIAA Training Standards Group. The appointed inspector, Patrick Lamarque from CAF reported a very high standard training and assessment course that met the UIAA standards.

Course Summary: 10 days - Theory lessons 5 instructor trainees 4 different instructors (4) with a minimum of 2 each day 1 day examination with 5 true beginners (the instructors trainees have to lead and teach the beginner ) and an independant examinator.
The work of the group has attracted attention from all over the world this year. Below is a full list of current members of the group: Steve Long (BMC); Klemen Medja (PZS); Jose Perez Prego (FEDME); Ron Whitehead (ENEQ); Patrick Lamarque (CAF); Txomin Uriarte (EMF); Gabriel Porti (FEEC); Youri Baivovski (CFR); Nejat Akinci (TDF); Yann Smith (CAS SAC);
New Corresponding members for TSWG
	The Training Standards Working Group is delighted to welcome John Bicknell, member of the American Alpine Club and the Presisdent of the American Mountain Guide Associationas as a corresponding member of the group. Ma Xinxiang (Chinese Mountaineering Association) has also joined as corresponding member.

Mini seminar in Banff, October 2006
The Mountaineering Commission's Training Standards Working Group held a mini-seminar at Canmore and the Wheeler Hut, Roger's Pass BC in Canada. This was an opportunity for a small group to share and practice techniques developed in various elements of mountain craft with each other.

Delegates in attendence were:

1. Steve Long (Chair/President) MLTUK, UK
2. Mike Galbraith ACC, Canada
3. Patrick Lamarque CAF, France
4. Xose Manuel Perez Prego FEDME, Spain
5. Doug Nelson, ACC, Canada,
6. Ron Whitehead ENEQ, Quebec,
7. Steve Castonguay, FQME, Quebec (1st day only)

The main topics explored included:

• Teaching GPS: how much emphasis on modern technology for training/assessment?
1. Candidate’s ability to use/awareness
2. As a teaching resource (mapping software)
3. Collection of evidence by assessor/candidate
• Coaching movement skills; bouldering, cragging. Core basics, advanced skills
• Teaching/coaching lead climbing. Preferred methods for handling safety/quality.
• Improvised rescues. Emphasis on prusiks vs., gadgets. Safety  issues in teaching rescues. Gravity fed or hoisting?

Invitation to extend representation

The success of the Training Standards Working Group to date has been its inclusive nature. If you wish to attend the training standards group as either a correspondent or as a full member please do not hesitate to contact the Group's President, Steve Long

Contact us: steve@mltuk.org