Mountain Leader Training Association
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Developments in Single Pitch and Mountain Leader Awards Reviews are now complete for the Mountain Leader (ML) and Single Pitch Award (SPA) resulting in very few changes to the basic syllabus but a range of developments in the guidance notes.
INTRODUCTION
These Guidance Notes, along with the MLTS Winter Mountain Leader
Prospectus & Syllabus, have been prepared for candidates at
all stages of the winter scheme and for Course Directors and those
who work on training and assessment courses. They are an attempt
to attain a parity of standards for candidates, trainers and assessors.
It is not intended that the notes should be definitive; they have
been prepared to allow a flexibility of interpretation within
the framework of the syllabus. Indeed, the strength of the scheme,
as with mountaineering in general, lies in its freedom from rigid
constraints.
This is the Second Edition of MLTS winter scheme Guidance Notes
and any comments and sugges-tions for improvements will be welcomed.
HISTORICAL NOTE
The Scottish Mountain Leader Training Board was established in
1964 to create schemes of training and assessment for people employed
as leaders and instructors of mountaineering activities.
The Winter ML scheme was introduced in 1965 and was operated by
the SMLTB, now Mountain Leader Training Scotland, although close
liaison is maintained between all MLT through Mountain Leader
Training UK.
MLTS considers that the scheme should be dynamic and receptive
to the changing needs of our society, and this it strives to do
by monitoring the syllabus and its implementation. Over the 30
plus years of the schemes' existence the syllabus and standards
have proved to be sound and have required only minor changes in
emphasis and terminology.
1 CANDIDATES
These notes are aimed at assessment candidates, but they should
also help to inform training candidates. As the Prospectus explains,
to gain the Winter ML award involves registering, attending a
training course, and gaining further experience before finally
being assessed. You are advised not to proceed too quickly from
training to assessment but to allow yourself sufficient opportunity
to overcome any weaknesses identified during training and to acquire
the technical skills and judgement that stem from experience.
The assessment course gives candidates the opportunity to prove
to themselves that they can operate as winter mountain leaders
at a nationally recognised standard. While these notes talk of
assessment standard, they are also outlining the minimum standard
required of a practising winter mountain leader.
The following notes give details of assessment courses. The essence
of any advice is simply "to do what you know" and leave
the job of interpreting your actions to the assessor.
The assessment course is normally a five day examination directed
by a MIC holder. Each course will have a Course Director who will
usually participate in the direct assessment of individuals. One
of the main tasks of the Course Director is to offer guidance
to both candidate and assessor and also to mediate in circum-stances
which warrant intervention. Assessors will be allocated to small
groups of candidates; no more than four at any one time. You should
be examined by at least two assessors, although generally one
will be the main examiner.
During assessment you will be expected to demonstrate the practical
skills in a range of circumstances that are likely to occur during
winter hill walking expeditions. You will be expected; to show
that you are completely "at home" in the winter mountain
environment; to demonstrate practical skills with the ease and
fluency that results from long practice, and be able to move easily
and with confidence over snow, ice, rocks and scree in steep and
exposed situations.
All aspects of the syllabus may be covered but usually lack of
time prohibits total examination of every topic. You should therefore
expect to be examined more thoroughly in subjects which commonly
pose problems.
Unsuccessful candidates often show weaknesses in the following
areas of the syllabus:
Navigation, which
can be very testing in poor visibility.
Security on steep ground, especially with
regard to the appropriate technique to employ.
Party supervision particularly in bad weather
or on difficult terrain.
Assessment of avalanche risk.
Since everyone can make mistakes, isolated errors are not normally
grounds for failure, but persistent mistakes, however minor may
well lead to a deferral or recommendation for re-assessment. Assessors
are often more interested in your ability to cope with mistakes
and recover from them rather than the fact that you made a minor
mistake in the first instance. You should be aware that lack of
proficiency in two major areas is likely to result in a fail rather
than a deferment.
Written tests of some form will be given during the course and
are mainly used as diagnostic tests, ie illustrating strengths
or weaknesses. By themselves they will not determine the final
result but they will aid assessors when considering the choice
of tasks to be set in the latter part of the course. Example written
questions are at Appendix 1 and candidates are advised to study
these. It is most likely that these tests will be related to subjects
such as:
Winter mountain safety
Winter mountain weather
Snow and avalanche
Cold weather injuries
At the end of the assessment course you will normally be interviewed
and your assessment result recorded in the logbook.
Finally the winter mountain environment is genuinely hazardous
and assessment courses will normally proceed irrespective of weather
and snow conditions. Course Directors make every effort to ensure
that candidates are not exposed to unnecessary risk but it is
essential to the process of the training and assessment of winter
mountain leaders that candidates are exposed to situations where
real judgements about safety have to be made. Candidates are urged
to ensure that they have recent winter mountaineering experience
in Scotland before attending assessment and that they are fully
aware of the weather and snow hazards to which they will be exposed.
However, in extreme conditions Course Director may have to abandon
the process of assessment.
2 APPEALS PROCEDURE
MLTS has an established procedure for appeals or complaints. If,
for any reason, you are dissatisfied with the conduct of your
assessment or the result, you should, in the first instance, discuss
the matter with the Course Director to establish the reasons for
the decision and the subsequent recommendations before reassessment.
If the matter is not satisfactorily dealt with by your Course
Director you should contact the MLTS Secretary for informal discussion
and additional clarification. Should the matter remain unresolved
you will be requested to complete a Candidate Appeal Proforma
and write to the Board.
The MLTS Secretary will then arbitrate and give his/her view on
the validity of the decision and make any recommendations to the
candidate and/or the Course Director.
Should you still be dissatisfied with the result the matter will
be referred to the Chairperson of MLTS whose decision is final.
3 TRAINERS
Trainers are individually responsible for a group of candidates
for a substantial part of the training course. They must all be
people who have worked extensively with `near novice' groups,
have broad experience of all aspects of the syllabus, are well-informed
about the scheme in general and are qualified Winter Mountain
Leaders, Instructors or Guides. Trainers require a great deal
of experience to draw on when faced with searching questions from
candidates, perhaps regarding group supervision and safety on
potentially dangerous ground or under extreme weather conditions.
This experience needs to be kept up to date on a personal, as
well as professional, level.
Trainers should identify areas of the syllabus which require special
emphasis and should weigh the experience of individuals against
group requirements. They should also elicit from experienced assessors
what areas of the syllabus usually provide difficulties for candidates.
It is imperative that trainers do not work in isolation, and preferably
that they have worked alongside experienced training and assessment
staff beforehand.
Training courses rely heavily on the candidates and their collective
experience as well as on the trainers themselves. Very small groups
of candidates may not derive maximum benefit from a training course
and Directors should not consider running courses for less than
four candidates.
Candidates find it difficult to cover some aspects of the syllabus
while practising outside the supervision of trainers and thus
particular emphasis should be placed on such aspects, which will
include:
High navigation skill in poor conditions
Assessment of avalanche risk
Snowcraft (ice axe and crampon skills)
Snowholes and emergency shelter construction
Security on steep ground
Many of the above require technical skills to be taught before
the more difficult idea of judgement can be introduced; trainers
must ensure that sufficient time is allowed for the "when
and where" as well as the "how".
Parts of the syllabus may be covered by detailed lecture sessions
but ample opportunity should be provided for questions and discussions.
Trainers will have their own ideas regarding lecture topics but
these should be related to syllabus content and tend to cover
those subjects which are not easily studied outside the training
course. However, lectures should not be given in isolation. Whether
on equipment, weather, cold injuries or hazards, trainers should
ensure that these lectures are integrated with the practical content.
The course should be structured to provide a progressive learning
platform for the candidate. Some topics will be completely new
to some so the programme needs to allow them the time to assimilate
all the information. A diagnostic quiz or written paper may be
a useful guide to allow both trainers and candidates to determine,
and concentrate on, weak areas. The end of course debrief should
involve individual interviews.
Registration requirements include having read the syllabus, which
explains that the course is for potential leaders and assumes
basic competence as a winter hill walker. As such, candidates
must have considerable winter mountain walking experience as well
as a genuine interest in hill walking and group leadership. Trainers
are expected to vet potential candidates in order to ensure the
above and should contact the MLTS if there are any problems.
4 ASSESSORS
The role of the assessor can be a rewarding one; creating situations
in which candidates can prove to themselves that they are able
to cope with many of the eventualities they hope never to have
to face when leading real groups. Even where candidates are weak
the assessor can do a good job of ensuring that this is illustrated
clearly and that the candidates are left knowing their strengths
and how to develop and improve their weak areas.
This role calls for mature, experienced instructors, whose views
will be respected by candidates. Broad experience will allow assessors
to examine the candidates' solutions to a task with objectivity
and thus avoid a dogmatic, blinkered approach. Every effort should
be made to minimise the pressure of assessment and to understand
its effects. Assessors need to have not only personal experience
of being assessed, but also up to date memories of what it feels
like to be on unfamiliar ground, having to make decisions with
uncertain outcomes.
To some extent assessments will always be artificial. It is a
fundamental part of the course that the respective roles of the
candidates and the assessors are fully explained to candidates.
Some candidates under assessment feel that they are the least
competent member of the party and find it difficult to take on
a leadership role. They must be encouraged not to make assumptions
about their peers and to act responsibly when leading them.
Candidates will also try to work out what the assessor is "really
trying to find out" when setting a particular task and their
minds may wander from the job in hand to what every minute twitch
and tremor of the assessor really means. Always brief the candidate
clearly beforehand and discuss the task until both sides know
and agree on what is being asked for and how everyone will know
when it is complete. Then allow the candidate to get on with it
without interrupting or compromising their role as leader. When
the opportunity comes to debrief the candidates (normally at the
end of each day) it is also important to allow them opportunities
to reply to any comments about their performance. In discussing
the candidate's performance, assessors should not talk in terms
of passing or failing since this can only be determined at the
end of the course.
The relationship between candidate and assessor requires frankness.
Assessors are the only ones interpreting candidates' actions and
this interpretation needs to be explained. Some time should be
spent in conversation with the candidate, not so much as an oral
test but in an attempt to get to know the person so that the reasoning
behind his or her judgements may be better understood. It is all
too easy to hide behind the more palatable, objective aspects
of the assessment such as an inability to find a navigation point
or tie safe knots. Greater experience is needed if reservations
are to be expressed about candidates' ability, for example, to
communicate safely with their group, effectively manage them on
steep ground or correctly judge what kind of terrain the group
can safely negotiate.
Candidates should be learning about themselves as well as about
their peers throughout the week. Wherever possible, further training
should also be given to candidates by the assessor. However, the
assessor's primary role is to decide whether someone is up to
the standard of the Winter Mountain Leader award and there may
be times when assessors need every minute of their day to find
this out. Candidates have much to gain from personal contact with
assessors and any opportunity to enhance the knowledge or ability
of candidates should be used to full advantage.
Candidates should not necessarily be censured because of mistakes
but rather because of their inability to cope with the aftermath
and to correct them. Assessors should differentiate between fundamental
errors of judgement and simple technical errors; the latter may
often be retrained on the spot whereas the former may require
substantial further experience.
Assessors should note that lack of proficiency in two major areas
of the syllabus should result in a fail rather than a deferment.
5 ASSESSMENT COURSE DIRECTORS
Every assessment course should be staffed with mature persons,
with good all-round experience of mountaineering and a lengthy
involvement in teaching and leadership of others in the field.
Directors should ensure that each candidate meets the pre-course
standard before accepting a candidate for assessment. Those whose
logged experience falls below the minimum requirement should have
their log books returned for further entries and resubmission.
Applicants who show weaknesses or who have borderline experience,
should be informed before the beginning of the course.
Directors must be involved in the planning of each day and maintain
a leading role throughout the course. Informal contact with all
candidates is recommended. This is particularly desirable with
borderline cases.
Assessors should be encouraged to give results to the Director
as soon as sessions are finished. Any poor performances must be
well documented in order that the Director is satisfied with the
verdict and is able to substantiate the result to the candidate.
The method of presenting final results to candidates is left entirely
to the discretion of Course Directors. It may, for instance, be
inappropriate to hold lengthy debriefs and individual discussions
when all candidates have been successful. On the other hand, it
will invariably be desirable to offer advice and encouragement
to unsuccessful candidates. It is essential that comments are
made orally and on the assessment page of the logbook. Many people
will not hear everything being said to them and will need to refer
to the logbook page for the details of the result, advice about
further experience and, if re-assessment is proposed, details
of any pre-requirements. It is hoped that deferred candidates
will return to the same Course Director. However, they are at
liberty to go elsewhere, in which case, the notes of the original
assessment may need to be passed on to the new assessment Course
Director.
Assessors should be encouraged to give interim feedback to candidates,
but Directors should not make this compulsory. It should be made
clear that each day is not taken in isolation, so scraping through
each day may not add up to a pass at the end of the week and conversely,
one poor day may be redeemed by the other four or five.
6 WRITTEN QUESTION PAPERS
Some aspects of the Winter Mountain Leader syllabus are best assessed
through the medium of written questions. Each Course Director
may set written papers on any syllabus subject. However, most
ask can-didates to sit papers based upon areas of the syllabus
which are not easily tested practically, such as weather and cold
injuries. The type of question may vary from those requiring one-word
answers to those requiring longer answers with, perhaps, diagrams.
No assessor should fail candidates for poor performance in theory
tests alone. Rather, the result of the tests should be discussed
critically with the candidate concerned and any conclusions used
as an aid to the judgement of his or her overall performance.
Furthermore, some candidates will have particular difficulty in
responding to the written test and oral testing should be considered
as an alternative.
Candidates should be given fair warning of an impending written
assessment paper and not be subjected to a written paper just
after arrival.
The inclusion of structured discussion is desirable, when interchange
of ideas and opinions may take place. Ideally, candi-dates should
be made aware of the methods of applying theory tests well before
the test begins. Example theory questions are at Appendix 1.
Syllabus notes1
SNOW AND AVALANCHES 1.1 Candidates
The objective hazards to which walking groups are exposed during
winter conditions are varied but very real. Avalanches in particular
pose a hazard and therefore the study of snow and avalanche is
a vital section of the syllabus.
A common weakness with candidates is difficulty in interpreting
the information to be found from examination of the snow pack.
Having read about snow and avalanches in appropriate books such
as Mountaincraft and Leadership, you will be aware that this is
a vast subject area and that even experts can have difficulty
predicting the likelihood or risk of avalanches. You will neither
be expected to become an expert nor to be able to predict avalanches.
However, you will be expected to recognise the indicators and
signs of avalanche risk and which slopes may be more prone to
avalanche than others.
There are a number of ways to increase knowledge and skills of
this subject:
Attend an avalanche course. Such courses
undoubtedly provide candidates with a level of expertise more
than sufficient to meet the standards required at assessment.
However, there are the drawbacks of additional time and costs
to be considered.
Study the subject through reading the books
on the subject and articles on avalanches in the climbing press.
Understand winter weather and the effects
it has on the snowpack.
Dig snow pits and practice the interpretation
skills learnt on the training course. This simple option is
neglected by many candidates and it often shows.
During the assessment you will be asked
to dig a snow pit, make an analysis of the snowpack and then
draw conclusions on the relative safety of the snowpack. This
process should then translate into safe route selection. Provided
you read and maintain interest in the subject and, most importantly,
practice snowpack anaylsis and interpreting the information
gained, you should have little difficulty during assessment.
Do not forget that you should also be very familiar with the
Scottish Avalanche Information Service.
1.2 Trainers
Whilst all candidates should be very aware of the dangers of avalanches,
few will have more than theoretical knowledge provided by reading
about the subject. Few are likely to have dug snow pits to interpret
the snowpack, nor taken part in a search for a victim caught by
an avalanche. Some candidates may not understand the avalanche
forecasting system and how it can be used to enhance both safety
and learning. The subject should therefore initially be made as
simple and basic as possible with the initial lecture concentrating
on the practical aspects of the subject.
Training in the interpretation of the snowpack should not be treated
as an isolated subject but should be continued practically throughout
the training course. Significant variations in weather conditions
will be a positive aid to candidate learning as this should enable
them to identify changes in the snowpack and, with ongoing guidance,
to interpret what effects these changes may have on the level
of avalanche risk.
At least one lecture should be given during the course and this
should have a strong visual impact. The use of slides, video,
overhead projector and other visual aids is recommended. A list
of subjects is offered here as a guide to lecture content:
The metamorphosis
of snow crystals.
The formation of windslab and its recognition.
Causes of avalanche.
Avalanche types.
The avalanche hazard grading system.
Precautions when negotiating an avalanche
prone slope.
Actions if caught in an avalanche and avalanche
search and rescue.
The SAIS.
Cornice formation and hazards.
It will be extremely helpful for candidates to have access to
books on avalanches during the training course.
1.3 Assessors
By the time candidates attend an assessment course, they should
be aware that evaluation of the snow conditions is an essential
part of winter mountaineering. Consequently, this topic should
not be seen as something to be assessed as a one-off skill on
a particular day but as an ongoing and developing contribution
to the week's course.
It is likely that written papers will be used to assess candidates'
knowledge of theoretical aspects such as snow crystals and types
and causes of avalanches as well as precautions in avalanche areas
and search and rescue. Snow conditions and slope aspect encountered
throughout the week will offer opportunities for questioning and
discussion. Assessors should take the opportunity to offer further
training when circumstances allow.
Candidates should be expected to understand the link between the
weather (past and present) and avalanche risk. They should also
have knowledge of the SAIS, in particular the limitations of avalanche
information and how to interpret this. In snow pit analysis candidates
are not expected to have detailed knowledge of snow metamorphosis
but rather to recognise changes in the snow layers and signs of
possible danger.
This part of the syllabus is not usually a matter of pass or fail
but a candidate who is oblivious to obvious danger of the snow
conditions may be recommended for further training. While the
candidate should be allowed as far as possible to assess the situation
for him/herself, the assessor may need to take over if decisions
put the group in situations of unnecessary danger.
2 SNOWHOLES AND EMERGENCY SHELTERS 2.1 Candidates
Even as committed winter mountaineers few candidates will have
experienced a night in a snow shelter, either voluntarily or involuntary,
before the training course. The aim of staying overnight in a
snow shelter during the training course is twofold. Firstly to
demonstrate how to survive if forced into a night out in winter
conditions, and secondly that such a night out can be completed
in relative comfort. The aim is not to teach the Winter Mountain
Leader how to conduct expeditions using snow holes as the base
or main form of accommodation. You should remember that coming
off the hill late, if it can be achieved safely, is invariably
preferable to spending an unscheduled night in a snow shelter.
The aim remains the same during assessment. Almost anyone with
the right equipment and some basic skills training will be able
to survive in a snow shelter. However, a Winter Mountain Leader
is expected to be at a higher standard than merely being able
to survive one night and should be fit and organised sufficiently
to be able to cope with the demands of a three day expedition
based in snow holes. In preparing for assessment candidates should
practice the construction of a variety of snow shelters and, in
non-serious situations, spend nights out with peers.
2.2 Trainers
The foremost task is to teach the techniques for the construction
of snow shelters. This should include emergency shelters constructed
against the clock, ie within 30 minutes, and also the more sophisticated
snowhole for an overnight expedition.
Trainers should aim to extend candidates’ experience by
demonstrating that a night out in a snow shelter need not be intimidating.
Indeed emphasis should be placed on maintaining comfort and warmth
through good organisation and basic expedition skills.
It is not within the remit of the Winter Mountain Leader to lead
expeditions using snowholes as expedition bases however candidates
must be able to recognise suitable sites for the construction
of emergency shelters including snowholes. This should include
selecting suitable locations by using a map. The task of deciding
on the snowhole site for candidates during the training course
will be yours.
Ideally every candidate should spend at least one night in a snow
shelter. However, it is appreciated that the weather in Scotland
can be fickle at the best of times, in winter doubly so. When
conditions are overly hazardous, for example in conditions of
a rapid thaw or high avalanche risk, trainers should consider
alternatives to spending a night out in a snow shelter.
2.3 Assessors
Although it will be usual for candidates to spend 2 nights snowholing
on expedition, an assessor may have to use alternatives where
the safety of the group necessitates this.
Candidates should be able to demonstrate skill, practice and fitness
in digging a suitable shelter in a reasonable amount of time.
They should be able to select, from the map and in the mountains,
likely areas for snowholing. They should be aware of changes to
snow banks that may occur during an overnight stay and be able
to suggest ways to protect themselves and others from dangers
of burial and avalanches.
Candidates are expected to do more than just `survive' the experience.
They should be organised enough to demonstrate that they are capable
of safely continuing the journey and looking after a group after
a prolonged spell in what are often very adverse conditions. While
the expedition may often be used to assess navigation at night,
assessors do not need to make conditions artificially difficult.
Situations which occur during the course will usually provide
the assessor with opportunities to determine a candidate's ability.
Candidates should be fully aware of the seriousness of spending
a night out with a group in winter and assessors should emphasise
this during the expedition.
3 SNOWCRAFT 3.1 Candidates
The term snowcraft is used to describe the use of ice axe and
crampons. Much emphasis is placed on this aspect of the syllabus
and efficient and effective use of the ice axe and crampons are
fundamental skills of the winter mountain leader. Indeed if leading
novices in winter, the mountain leader is required to provide
basic instruction in the use of ice axes and crampons before taking
a group to any location where their use becomes necessary either
for mobility or safety.
While preparing for assessment, you should concentrate on the
selection of suitable locations to teach novices ice axe braking.
3.2 Trainers
Despite the fact that all candidates will have logged at least
20 winter quality mountain days, and should be familiar with the
use of ice axe and crampons, the quality of skills between them
will be very variable. It may be necessary to spend some time
ensuring that all candidates can satisfactorily demonstrate the
use of ice axe and crampons on a variety slopes and surfaces.
Usually a complete day early in the course is devoted to basic
snow skills of which part will be spent on ice axe and crampon
skills, followed up with practice elsewhere throughout the course.
Discussion on the suitability of the different equipment for specialist
use will be valuable.
The main difficulty candidates have is an inability to demonstrate
good ice axe braking. Therefore you should be prepared to provide
instruction and demonstrate correct use of both ice axe and crampons.
3.3 Assessors
This part of the syllabus will be assessed practically. The need
to provide basic tuition to novices means candidates should be
able to demonstrate good technique and confident use of their
equipment. They should have sufficient knowledge to select equipment
suitable for themselves and for novice winter hillwalkers.
Candidates should be able to select a slope suitable for practising
ice axe arrest and movement on snow and suggest ways to improve
safety in an area which is not ideal.
They should be aware that judgement of where and when to use ice
axe and crampons is essential. Assessors should take the opportunity
throughout the course to question candidates on situations where
novices might need to use this equipment.
4 SECURITY ON STEEP GROUND 4.1 Candidates
There is an established need for mountain leaders to be able to
operate safely on steep ground, not necessarily through choice
but because circumstances have forced the group onto such terrain.
In these circumstances you must be able to safeguard your group
and be able to assess your own limitations and those of the group.
This is an important element of the syllabus as the techniques
are only likely to be required when an emergency arises. In such
a situation it is vital that you can perform the techniques competently,
confidently and safely.
Candidate often fail to appreciate the difference between the
personal experience requirements of 10 recognised Grade 1 winter
climbs and the techniques of security on snow and ice to be demonstrated
at assessment. The inclusion of the requirement to have completed
10 Grade 1 climbs is to ensure that candidates have experience
of moving and belaying on a variety of terrain at this standard.
It is not necessary for you to be an accomplished snow and ice
climber but it is important that you are at ease on steep and
hazardous terrain. It also ensures that you have practised many
of the security on steep ground techniques taught during the training
course.
The need for experience of a range of mountain terrain in winter
cannot be over-emphasised. It is one thing to know from past experience
the quirks of a particular mountain - a very different thing to
encounter them for the first time en route and have to make decisions
about how best to proceed. The scheme requires you to be technically
competent and safe using only the equipment that a leader and
group would carry for a winter walking expedition, ie rope, sling,
karabiner, ice axe and possibly a deadman or a lightweight shovel.
Assessment does not require the use of winter climbing gear such
as pegs, nuts and camming devices etc. During the training course
you will be taught security on snow and ice techniques using the
walking equipment outlined above.
Some candidates have climbing experience and will already be familiar
with many of the techniques and equipment required for climbing.
Such candidates may be given additional instruction during the
training course on snow and ice climbing skills. It is not unusual
for trainers to include the ascent of graded climbs in the course.
Even if you do not have a rock climbing background you are likely
to progress sufficiently well to complete graded climbs.
Candidates often fail to impress assessors, and in turn would
not impress their group, regarding simple tasks with the rope
such as uncoiling, preparing the rope and knot-tying. These are
elementary skills which can be practised anywhere and you should
aim for a high standard in these aspects. A more difficult skill
is the ability to choose a safe and suitable anchor since this
reflects considerable experience - there is no room for serious
error here. Assessors will accept any safe and efficient method
of constructing anchors in snow and ice. The ability to set up
a certain type of belay system is less important than your ability
to assess whether such a technique would be appropriate.
4.2 Trainers
Whilst all candidates, being Mountain Leaders, will be familiar
with elementary ropework, a number have difficulty appreciating
that the winter scheme requires a competency and judgement that
only comes with long practice and personal confidence on steep
winter terrain. The emphasis should be on avoidance of the problems
of security on steep winter terrain. These are emergency techniques
where there may be unplanned use of the rope and they are more
likely to be required in descent rather than ascent. Training
should reflect this.
Many candidates may have no climbing experience. Therefore the
skills to concentrate on are attaching to the rope, construction
of an anchor on snow/ice, construction of the belay, rope management
and the use of the appropriate technique, and surmounting cornices.
Trainers should be aware that this element of the syllabus is
potentially hazardous and candidates can easily be taken beyond
both their experience and confidence. Trainers must examine each
candidate’s log book to ascertain their background experience.
With comfort and educational principles in mind, the terrain chosen
should not be intimidating. Trainers who continually strive for
realism should always consider the outcome of an unguarded moment
or a lapse of concentration.
The particular rope systems adopted will not necessarily be those
of the climber. While candidates with climbing experience have
advantages and can help in training others, there is a danger
of adopting inappropriate techniques eg. the leader always being
tied to the rope, expecting an anchor point to be within easy
reach of the stance etc.
The syllabus expects proficiency with normal winter hill walking
equipment. Careful explanation must be given if teaching snow
and ice climbing skills beyond the requirements of the award since
it can be confusing to require techniques and skills with limited
hill walking equipment and yet train with the full paraphernalia
required for snow and ice climbing.
4.3 Assessors
When looking at the use of security on steep ground techniques,
assessors must be satisfied about the candidate's judgement and
attitude to it. Assessors must not place extra emphasis upon this
aspect of the syllabus, nor should the atmosphere or setting be
unduly intimidating. They should help the candidates tackle the
problems in a reasonably relaxed state of mind with an appropriate
amount of time to complete the task.
Because there will always be technical variations between trainers,
assessors should be open minded as to the actual method used.
The main criterion is that any safe and efficient method is acceptable.
Particularly where several candidates are being set tasks at the
same time, assessors must be aware of the need to retain ultimate
control over everyone's safety.
It is desirable that, when assessment is completed, a discussion
takes place in an informal atmosphere, reviewing methods, attitudes
and particularly, general problems associated with winter security
on steep ground. The interchange of ideas at this stage should
be considered as training for all concerned.
Major weaknesses in a candidate's judgement, technical skills
and confidence on steep terrain should be noted carefully and
discussed with the Director. Some weaknesses may be retrained
and the candidate passed. Others such as poor selection of anchors
may merit a deferral, but where it is the candidate's judgement
about what is or is not Grade 1 terrain and suitable for a group,
this may contribute to an overall fail.
Finally, the requirement to complete the assessment can mean that
assessment takes place in conditions that no Winter Mountain Leader
would consider suitable for leading a group. Weather and conditions
should be taken into account.
5 COLD WEATHER INJURIES
5.1 Candidates
This is not a difficult subject to learn in theory but, because
everyone's natural inclination is to avoid cold weather injuries,
few candidates have experience of actually dealing with them.
You should not be overly concerned about this as real cold weather
injuries are generally easily recognisable, even in the early
stages, and treatment can be made before conditions worsen.
It is to be hoped that during training or assessment no one suffers
any injuries of any kind. This obviously restricts the options
for assessing you to verbal and written questions. The latter
provides a more thorough and impartial method. You should therefore
expect emphasis on the identification and treatment of cold weather
injuries in the form of written questions.
This is a subject that can be adequately revised in the comfort
of your own home. You are advised to read up on cold weather injuries.
Do not forget that during practical assessment sessions you will
be expected to take all methods available to avoid cold weather
injuries.
5.2 Trainers
All candidates, being ML award holders, will have gained at least
one first aid certificate. It should therefore be unnecessary
to labour instruction in hypothermia and heat disorders. Trainers
should concentrate on the identification and treatment of cold
weather injuries associated with low temperatures. If instruction
on the subject is provided early in the course it also acts as
a reminder of the hazardous nature of winter mountaineering.
This is also not a subject that readily lends itself to practical
instruction unless a genuine cold weather injury occurs and hopefully
it will not! This being the case, cold weather injuries is a subject
that requires little more than a short lecture by way of introduction
and for the candidates to be directed towards self instruction.
However, the practice of injury avoidance and constant monitoring
of group members during practical training should be both demonstrated
and encouraged, possibly through pairing up candidates who should
keep a watch on each other. This is sometimes referred to as the
buddy system.
5.3 Assessors
Assessment of this subject is probably best conducted through
the use of written questions, perhaps confirmed with verbal questioning,
particularly on avoidance, during practical sessions. However,
candidates should demonstrate positive actions that minimise the
possibility of cold weather injury to both themselves and other
party members.
6 NAVIGATION
6.1 Candidates
As for the ML award, navigation is probably the most important
aspect of the winter scheme. Similarly, poor navigation skills
continue to be the most common weakness for candidates during
assessment. The major difference between the standards of ML and
Winter ML is that in winter far greater use is made of dead reckoning.
In zero visibility, the skills of walking accurately on a compass
bearing for a set distance are crucial.
It is essential for you to be able to navigate accurately and
be able to identify the 100 metre square within which you are
located at any time during a walk. If you are unable to locate
your party's position accurately you may unknowingly lead your
party into danger or, should an incident occur, you will fail
the group and waste time for the rescue services. Candidates’
navigational ability should be such that they can navigate accurately
and look after their group at the same time.
The element that candidates have most difficulty in coping with,
is the feeling of uncertainty produced by navigating for prolonged
periods in poor visibility. There is no short cut to overcoming
this. Confidence in such conditions comes from good navigation
skills being regularly practised, in poor visibility and on a
variety of different terrain.
Whilst the use of navigational aids such as altimeters and GPS
are becoming more available they are still not fully reliable
in all circumstances. For this reason your navigation skills will
be tested using map, compass and watch only.
6.2 Trainers
Whilst you can expect candidates to be competent navigators, a
pitfall to avoid is the assumption that they actually are. When
walking for leisure there is a natural inclination to avoid extended
periods in poor visibility and it is very probable that most candidates
will not have a great deal of experience of winter navigation
in poor visibility. Few candidates appreciate the practical and
psychological problems associated with navigating for an extended
period in poor visibility when they may never be absolutely certain
of their exact location.
It is best to assume that every candidate is weak and seek feedback
from them at every opportunity. From this you will be able to
determine each candidate's strengths and weaknesses.
Navigation training should be presented in a structured form,
so that progress is made throughout the course. By the end candidates
should understand the importance of a high level of competence,
be aware of the standard at assessment (accuracy to within 100
metres) and of how much work they (individually) need to undertake
before assessment.
GPS and altimeters are very valuable aids to navigation. However,
they are aids and not substitutes for fundamental skills. For
this reason GPS and altimeters may be demonstrated during training
but it should be made clear to candidates that they will be assessed
using map, compass and watch only. It is on this basis that they
should prepare themselves for assessment.
6.3 Assessors
Navigation will be tested throughout the week so assessors can
afford to settle candidates into the course by setting relatively
straightforward tasks early on. Assessors need to be sure that
errors, particularly at the start of the course, were due to inability,
rather than misunderstanding, "exam tension", or indeed
any factor other than lack of ability.
Decisions regarding failure should not be made too early in the
assessment. Assessors should remember that although navigation
seems to be an exact science, many factors have to be taken into
account when moving in unknown terrain. All great navigators in
this world will have become lost at some point or other. It is
important that a particular stage is not terminated just because
a candidate may appear to be "lost" but they are given
time to sort things out. Assessors must be sure that sufficient
time and opportunities are provided for a candidate to correct
any mistakes. The main requirement is to ascertain whether or
not a candidate can respond well to normal tasks of way-finding
and cope well as a leader, even when mistakes are made.
In terms of the terrain used, a balance must be struck between
fine navigation, often assessed on moorland and the broader style
of navigation used when following a path or major feature. Micro
navigation on a moor can allow a large number of comparable legs
to be set in a relatively short space of time. However, a straightforward
mountain walk can also provide many opportunities to assess navigation
and group management while also reminding everyone of the essence
of the activity.
Visibility will obviously influence the style of navigation used
by the candidates. Where the weather is good, greater emphasis
will be placed on night navigation, although this is no guarantee
of poor visibility. In such circumstances, complex convex slopes
will at least limit the amount of ground visible at any one time.
Candidates’ navigational ability is to be tested with map
and compass without the use of GPS or other similar equipment.
Good candidates will be both competent and confident.
7 WINTER WEATHER
7.1 Candidates
Candidates will already have an elementary understanding of weather.
The winter scheme builds on your existing knowledge to enable
you to translate the effects to the winter mountain environment.
The weather component, although of a theoretical nature, is predominantly
practical in its application. Weather always has an effect on
the snowpack and therefore forms an inherent part of the avalanche
hazard assessment. Furthermore numerous emergencies, occasionally
leading to disastrous consequences, have occurred as a result
of either ignorance of impending weather conditions or inappropriate
responses to prevailing conditions. Conversely, an enjoyable day
can sometimes be achieved after a poor start because the leader
has foreseen an improvement.
You should develop an interest in elementary meteorology and follow
daily forecasts, relating these to the observed weather conditions
and changes when actually winter mountaineering. In this way,
awareness and experience can be developed which should eventually
be translated into a better understanding of weather conditions
in mountain areas.
You are expected to be able to interpret television and newspaper
(media) weather maps so that your own forecast is close to the
conditions actually experienced when winter mountaineering. You
should also have an understanding of the effects of weather on
the snowpack.
7.2 Trainers
Whilst candidates may be expected to have an understanding of
simple media forecasting, many find this a difficult subject.
However, the weather lecture given to ML candidates should not
be repeated. Bearing in mind that this is a complex subject you
should concentrate on the practical application of the effects
the forecast weather will have on both the snowpack and individuals.
It is suggested that candidates should have access to daily forecasts
and, in the presence of a trainer, interpret the information for
the day's activity.
Any lecture on snow and avalanches is inextricably linked to weather.
Therefore it may be possible to combine the subjects in one lecture.
Candidates may not have experienced the severity of weather that
frequently occurs in Scotland in winter. Opportunities should
be exploited throughout the course to observe prevailing conditions,
compare with forecasts and encourage analysis and discussion.
Discussion should also include the seriousness of winter mountaineering
with groups of novices.
7.3 Assessors
Weather knowledge is often tested by use of written questions.
However, assessors should bear in mind that this subject is relatively
scientific and that qualified meteorologists sometimes get it
wrong! Failure of written questions may not be critical but lack
of skill in interpreting the effects weather on the snowpack could
be.
It is therefore suggested that SIMPLE theory questions are included
in the written paper to test the candidates' knowledge and, as
the assessment progresses, assessors make use of available time
for further training and discussion. Candidates should be given
access to daily forecasts and questioned regarding their own interpretation.
8 EXPEDITION SKILLS
8.1 Candidates
The scheme requires you to have experience of this topic and to
be able to organise and execute expeditions. Experience should
be gained in a variety of different terrain and weather conditions
and, as a ML holder, you should be well practised in the use of
the more common items of equipment. However, you must be aware
of the dangers associated with short daylight hours, severe weather
and quickly changing underfoot conditions that occur in winter
and also with the additional fatigue and stress associated with
winter mountaineering.
Expeditions incorporate so many aspects of mountain walking that
their importance should not be underrated. Innumerable opportunities
to practise personal and group skills occur while away from civilisation
for extended periods. During assessment at least two nights will
be spent out, preferably using snow shelters, and you will be
examined in many aspects of supervision and safety.
Great importance is now attached to environmental matters and
you should take a positive interest in this aspect of the syllabus,
particularly the problems associated with the removal of waste.
Many candidates find it easy to survive a single night out as
conducted on the training course. However, an expedition with
two nights out is a real test of planning, organisational skills
and stamina. Your best method of preparation for assessment is
to have undertaken overnight expeditions with peers during the
consolidation period.
8.2 Trainers
Candidates should already be competent and well organised during
expeditions. However, the nature of the winter environment inevitably
means that additional effort is required to remain comfortable.
Training sessions should extend the candidates’ knowledge
and experience of leadership situations, supervision and common
problems encountered when on winter expeditions. An introduction
to winter expeditions is best given as a short lecture but this
is essentially a practical subject.
Time should be provided for a detailed review of a wide range
of equipment, including recent developments as well as the more
tried and tested items. Potential dangers and problems related
to equipment should also be identified and discussed.
For all overnight expeditions candidates are required to construct
their own accommodation in the form of a snow hole or some other
snow shelter. The expedition will often be the first occasion
that many candidates have spent a night out in winter conditions
and many regard a night in a snow shelter with concern. Candidates
often comment that it is the highlight of the training course.
For this reason alone the expedition is perhaps best left until
the end of the course as the climax. This is also justified because
the experience may leave candidates wet and tired and this situation
is not the most appropriate in which to continue the learning
process. It may be the case that it is necessary to move to base
immediately after packing up.
However, it is often wise to keep the programme flexible to take
advantage of prevailing and forecast conditions. There will be
occasions when the use of snow shelters will not be possible or
will place an unacceptable risk on the conduct of training. In
such circumstances the expedition should, whenever possible and
at the discretion of the Course Director, still take place but
another form of accommodation should be used. Trainers should
always remember that the training course should be a positive
experience.
During practical training periods trainers should both question
candidates on their general knowledge to give them an idea of
the kind of knowledge of additional interests they should acquire
and also provide information to stimulate their interest in such
matters.
8.3 Assessors
Assessors must provide adequate opportunity within the assessment
period to satisfy themselves of a candidate's all round knowledge
and competence and the ability to pass on basic winter mountaineering
skills to others. Each candidate should plan and execute part
of a two night expedition. The need to see each candidate performing
the duties of an expedition leader will dictate a well-structured
format and a careful (and fair) allocation of tasks.
Snow shelters should be used each night. This enables candidates
to demonstrate that they are capable of remaining comfortable
and fit to assume a leadership role in testing circumstances.
However, there will be occasions when the use of snow shelters
will not be possible or would place an unacceptable risk on the
conduct of the assessment. In such circumstances the expedition
should still take place but other forms of accommodation should
be used.
Other aspects of the overall assessment will be covered during
the expedition. Assessors may wish to provide opportunities for
movement at night, navigation, emergency procedures and problems
such as the supervision of youngsters in difficult weather. There
should be no special emphasis on moving great distances under
load
Generally speaking, the expedition will take place towards the
end of the assessment period and opportunities may occur to repeat
some situations that have hitherto produced a poor response. The
mountain expedition is often seen as a climax to the assessment
period.
Additional interests are best tested by use of a general knowledge
question paper. Example questions are included at Appendix 1.
A lack of knowledge of additional interests should not, in itself,
be a reason for failing or deferring candidates. However, weakness
in additional interests is likely to be a reflection of a lack
of experience or weakness in other syllabus subjects. As such
the results could be used to confirm decisions on borderline candidates.
APPENDIX 1 - EXAMPLE WRITTEN QUESTIONS
These are given as examples of different styles of question and
the list is not intended to be definitive. Course providers will
usually employ a range of different styles and may not necessarily
use any of the styles shown here:
Snow and Avalanches
1. Between what two angles of slope are avalanches generally most
prevalent?
2. Which of the following slope profiles causes the greatest tension
within the snow?
a. Uniform slope.
b. Convex slope.
c. Concave slope.
d. Indented slope.
3. Which of the following is the most common form of avalanche
found in Scotland?
a. Slab.
b. Loose snow.
c. Wet snow.
d. Powder.
4. What is a corridor search?
5. What are the two main considerations when deciding where to
dig an avalanche pit?
6. With a south-westerly wind, which slopes will be most avalanche
prone?
7. Ring (T)rue or (F)alse after the following statements:
a. After one person has crossed a slope, then it is safe and will
not avalanche. (T) (F)
b. The first thing to do in an avalanche accident is to send for
help. (T) (F)
8. If, after a period of heavy snowfall, the temperature stays
well below freezing for a number of days, what effect will this
have on the snow conditions and avalanche state?
a. Produce a prolonged risk.
b. Produce a medium risk for the next 12 hours.
c. Consolidate the snowpack and produce a marginal risk for the
next 24 hours.
d. Have little effect if walking on the lee slopes.
Security on Steep Ground
9. Ring (T)rue or (F)alse after the fol-lowing statements:
a. A Deadman provides the best belay on a snow slope? (T) (F)
b. When using crampons the most common reason for a slip is crampons
balling up? (T) (F)
c. A Deadman is placed at an (approximate) angle to the snow surface
of 35 degrees? (T) (F)
Cold Weather Injuries
10. Which of the following statements is true? Windchill is:
a. The combined effect of wind and rain.
b. The combined effect of rain and temperature.
c. The combined effect of wind and temperature.
b. A mathematical calculation of cold temperatures.
11. What is the primary concern when handling a deeply unconscious
casualty?
12. Briefly describe frostbite and the treatment for it.
13. What are the symptoms of snow-blindness and how is the condition
treated?
Winter Weather
14. With a wind speed of 20 mph at sea level, what wind speed
would you expect at 900m?
15. Given a temperature of 0 degrees C at sea level and average
humidity, what temperature would you expect at 1,000m?
16. What do lenticular clouds usually signify?
17. What is the name of the weather front `A' on the attached
synoptic chart?
18. On this chart, what is the wind direction over Scotland?
19. A steep temperature gradient will give rise to what type
of crystals?
20. Under what conditions does surface hoar form and how can
it constitute a danger?
Expedition Skills
21. Why is it preferable to have the entrance to an emergency
shelter at foot level?
22. List the points of safety required for a night in a snowhole.
General
23. What do the following Gaelic words mean?
- Ruadh - Garbh
- Stob Bealach
24. Why is Five Finger Gully well known?
25. What is a coarse probe and what is it used for?
26. What do the following abbreviations stand for?
a. SARDA b. SAIS c. MRC of S
d. MC of S e. SMC f. MIC
27. What are the advantages of plastic mountaineering boots over
leather mountaineering boots?
28. Briefly list the advantages and disadvantages of anti-balling
plates.
APPENDIX 2 - LOGBOOKS AND RECORDING EXPERIENCE
The logbook should provide a total record of the candidate's winter
mountaineering experience and demonstrate, at assessment, that
the Board's requirements have been fulfilled. It is also an essential
tool to help trainers advise candidates on specific further experience
needed before assessment.
All entries should refer to days spent in the mountains. Lengthy
route descriptions, with bearings or grid references, photo-graphs
or names of walking partners are unnecessary. Snow and ice climbing
experience, and mountaineering experience gained abroad involving
the use of ice axe and crampons, should be recorded on the separate
pages provided.
MLTUK recognises that experience gained out-with Scotland, both
in and outside the UK, may be both valid and enhance a candidates
knowledge of many aspects of the syllabus. However, the Winter
ML scheme is designed for people who wish to lead groups in the
mountains of the UK, therefore, greater value will be attributed
to winter experience acquired within the UK, and particularly
to experience of winter conditions in Scotland. MLTUK believes
that candidates for assessment must have at least 20 days of winter
hill walking experience in several different areas of Scotland,
although a greater number is desirable.
It is in the interests of candidates to evaluate their record
of experience before applying to attend an assessment course.
The assessment Course Director will be looking for experience
that has been acquired over at least three winter seasons and
in several mountain areas. Candidates should remember that experience
concentrated in one area or undertaken as a student under instruction
has a lower value and may be discounted or treated as of a relatively
low value when considering depth and breath of experience.
If there is insufficient space in the existing logbook pages,
the candidate should photo-copy blank pages and insert as necessary.
Finally candidates are requested to identify their best 40 quality
mountain days when submitting log books to assessors. An `*' by
the side of the entry, and/or use of a highlighter pen, is recommended.
The definition of a winter quality mountain day is given in the
Winter ML Prospectus & Syllabus.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
MLTS would like to express their appreciation
to MLTUK, the national mountain centres and the many Course Directors
who assisted in the
production of these Guidance Notes.
