Mountain Leader Training Association The Association provides opportunities for further education, experience and training, as well as access to an excellent insurance package.
You can join MLTA for £25. Visit the site on www.mlta.co.uk
Developments in coaching Reviews are now beginning for the MIA and MIC schemes to ensure that the qualifications remain at the cutting edge of instructional qualifications. MLTUK has been tasked to set up a parallel coaching qualifications structure.
You can click here to access the preliminary report on coaching, which led to the coaching project.
1 INTRODUCTION
The Mountain Instructor Scheme provides comprehensive training
and assessment for individuals working as instructors in the mountains.
It is designed for the specific situations and conditions found
in the UK. It integrates training, experience and assessment in
a variety of testing conditions in mountainous country.
The scheme provides training and assessment in the skills required
to teach, train and assess general mountaineering, rock and ice
climbing and related activities. There are two separate awards:
The Mountain Instructor Certificate, known as the MIC, covers
the additional skills required for winter mountaineering and winter
climbing. It also includes elements of training and assessment
which the MLTUK feels are necessary for those advising and directing
other courses of training or related activities.
2 STAGES IN THE SCHEME
The scheme consists of nine stages. The first five stages allow
a candidate to complete the Mountain Instructor Award
i register
ii attend an MIA Training Course
iii gain further experience during a consolidation
period
iv attend an MIA Assessment Course
v awarded MIA and continue to log experience
3 REGISTRATION
All potential candidates must first register for the Mountain
Instructor Scheme and satisfy the following conditions. You must
i be at least 20
years of age
ii have completed a Mountain Leader Award
(Summer)
iii have completed 20 quality mountain days
(See Appendix I) as a leader in sole charge of a mixed ability
group. These should not be repeat days and should be
obtained in a period following completion of the ML.
iv have substantial climbing experience
and be able to list a minimum of 30 named multi-pitch rock climbs
of VS4c standard or above which you have led in at least 3 main
climbing areas of the UK. These routes should represent the
breadth of your climbing experience. A large proportion of these
routes should be on mountain crags and major sea cliffs.
v Identify a suitable referee to endorse
the registration application, preferably a Mountain Instructor,
Guide or ML Centre staff member, but other long term climbing
partner or suitable employer will be considered.
4 FIRST AID REQUIREMENTS
Candidates for MIC must hold a valid first aid qualification as
required for the Mountain Leader Award (Summer) (see Appendix
III). In addition, candidates must undertake such additional elements
of first aid training as are consistent with their operation in
wild and remote country, including emergency assistance and evacuation
techniques. It is the responsibility of the award holders to evaluate
their likely work and the type of situations they can reasonably
expect to encounter and to gain appropriate first aid training
and qualifications to enable them to deal with these situations.
5 PRE-REQUIREMENTS FOR MIC
The winter element of the Mountain Instructor Scheme is considered
the minimum standard for those instructing the skills of snow
and ice climbing.
Pre-requirements for Training. Candidates must:
i have completed the Mountain Instructor
Award (Summer)
ii have completed the Winter Mountain Leader
Award
iii have 20 days logged experience of winter
party management (this can be both pre and post winter ML, but
at least 10 days must be post)
iv have logged at least 20 routes at Grade
II or above in a minimum of three main mountain areas of the
UK, of which 10 should be Grade III.
Pre-requirements for Assessment. Candidates must:
i have attended an MIC training course
ii have 10 days logged experience of winter
party management, post MIC training
iii have logged 5 days climbing experience
at Grade II or above post MIC training (in addition to iv above)
iv hold a valid first aid award (see Appendix
III and MIA First Aid, Section 6)
v be currently leading winter climbs at
Grade III standard or above
6 MIC TRAINING
All candidates must attend a mandatory 5 day training course at
an approved centre. Before attending a training course candidates
must be sure that they meet all of the Boards pre-requirements
for training. The training course includes aspects not assessed
on the final course, so there is no exemption from training. A
few minor aspects of the syllabus may not be covered during the
training course and candidates are expected to deal with these
themselves.
During the course advice will be given individually about further
experience so candidates must present a completed logbook at the
start of the course in order to assist this process.
7 MIC ASSESSMENT
When applying for assessment, candidates must send the logbook
and first aid certificate to the Director of Assessment to confirm
that sufficient experience has been gained. Candidates should
be familiar with all aspects of the syllabus.
MIC assessment courses are run over four days at approved centres.
The course assesses winter climbing skills, both personal and
instructional, and offers additional training in all aspects of
winter mountaineering.
At the end of the course the Director of Assessment endorses the
logbook with an assessment report which has one of the following
recommendations: PASS: awarded where the candidate
has demonstrated a proper knowledge and application of the course
syllabus and has shown the necessary experience for and application
of mountaineering instruction. The Board will then issue a Mountain
Instructor Certificate. DEFERRED: awarded where the
candidate has generally performed at the required standard and
shown the necessary experience and attributes, but where complete
proficiency has not been attained. Written recommendations for
further experience will be given, along with details of the proposed
re-assessment. (See Section 12). FAIL: awarded where the candidate's
performance has been generally weak, or the necessary experience
and attributes have not been shown.
A panel of at least three assessors (including the Director of
Assessment) will be involved in deciding each candidate's result.
8 RE-ASSESSMENT
Re-assessments cannot be more than two days in length, and must
follow a minimum period of three months after the original assessment.
A candidate may only take two re-assessments before being required
to take the entire assessment course again. Since the re-assessment
will be based on information gained during the original assessment,
all re-assessments must be completed within a five year period.
9 APPEALS PROCEDURE
If you feel that you have not been fairly dealt with at assessment
you should:
i Make contact with the Director of Assessment
and explain your concerns.
ii If you are still unhappy about your assessment
you should write to the Chief Officer of the MLTUK explaining fully
your concerns.
iii If the Chief Officer feels your concerns
are justified the matter will be referred to the MLTUK for adjudication.
The decision of the Board will be final.
SYLLABUS
1 PERSONAL MOUNTAINEERING
i competent, safe and assured leading of
multi-pitch rock climbs of VS4c standard
ii care and leadership of a party on scrambling
and rocky terrain including the use of short rope technique
iii safe control of a party in descent/retreat
from a rock climb or steep broken ground
iv knowledge and use of a wide range of
mountaineering/rock climbing equipment
v suitable choice of route, given ability
of party, weather and conditions
vi navigate with speed and efficiency in
all conditions
2 MOUNTAINEERING INSTRUCTION
i structure/organise and perform instruction and leadership in
a variety of mountain-related activities for participants who
range from novice to committed hillwalker and rock climber
ii present a lecturette to one's peers on
a mountain-related topic, promoting and inspiring discussion
iii present a mountain lecture to a large
audience of mixed background and experience, the intention being
to educate, enthuse and entertain
iv instruct all aspects of navigation
v structure, plan and run a variety of indoor
technical sessions for both novice and experienced climbers
3 ROCK CLIMBING INSTRUCTION
i prepare and organise a day's rock climbing
instruction for a large group on a single pitch crag, including
bouldering, climbing, top-roping, abseiling and lowering
ii assess ability of group in order to give
a safe, enjoyable and educational day
iii instruct and coach committed rock climbers
on multi-pitch climbs, including the teaching of all rock climbing
skills from advanced ropework to leading, including the use
of climbing walls
4 MOUNTAIN RESCUE
i knowledge and use of mountain rescue equipment
for general and crag rescue situations
ii assessment of accident scene, and implementation
of appropriate action
iii handling of casualty and safe movement/security
of rescue team
iv knowledge of a variety of stretcher lowers
5 IMPROVISED RESCUE
i ability to perform a variety of improvised
rescue techniques using normal climbing equipment - to include
abseiling, lowering, hoisting, escaping from the system and
prussiking
ii ability to assess a crag problem and
to determine the most efficient and effective solution
6 NATIONAL AWARDS AND LOCAL ACCREDITATION
SCHEMES
i demonstrate an ability to instruct and
supervise the elements of the Summer Mountainwalking Leader
Award Scheme, the Single Pitch Supervisors Award Scheme and
local accreditation schemes at both training and assessment
levels
ii awareness of the standards required for
assessment of the above awards and knowledge of suitable methods/means
of that assessment
iii knowledge of the philosophy, structure
and organisation of the above awards
iv awareness of the nature and form of mountain
training and its potential future development
7 THE MOUNTAIN ENVIRONMENT
i knowledge of the natural aspects of mountains
such as geology, natural history, flora and fauna
ii knowledge of the multiple use of mountain
areas and the necessity for the conservation and protection
of land against human pressures
iii awareness of problems relating to access
to wild country and our impact upon it
iv ability to enthuse and educate others
in the above topics
8 DEVELOPMENT AND HISTORY OF MOUNTAINEERING
i knowledge of mountaineering and rock climbing
history
ii knowledge of a wide range of mountain
literature including instructional, guidebooks and biographical
elements
iii knowledge of the structure of clubs
and mountaineering organisations
9 ASSESSMENT OF RISK AND ITS RELEVANT APPLICATION
i awareness of the responsibilities of the
Mountain Instructor to employer, child, parent, headmaster,
Training Board and others
ii evaluation of the needs and requirements
of individual/party to obtain a suitable level of adventure,
risk and safety
iii familiarity with the MLTUK's National
Guidelines and the implications of the Activities Centres (Young
Persons' Safety) Act 1995
iv an understanding of the Mountain Instructor's
role when acting as a Technical Expert
10 PERSONAL WINTER MOUNTAINEERING
i demonstrate competence of safe and assured leadership on multi-pitch
snow and ice climbs up to Grade III standard
ii supervision and control of a party in descent or retreat from
a snow and ice climb or steep and broken ground
iii demonstrate the technical skills required to safeguard a party
on difficult terrain, including the use of short rope techniques
as appropriate
iv understanding of the limitations in winter of campcraft and
use of alternative methods, planned and emergency
v demonstrate an ability to select a suitable route or climb,
given the ability and aspirations of the party and the likely
weather and conditions
11 WINTER MOUNTAINEERING INSTRUCTION
i be able to structure teaching sessions
and give demonstrations of appropriate techniques in all aspects
of the basic winter mountaineering skills
ii ability to demonstrate and instruct the
use of standard equipment such as ice axe, crampons and basic
belay techniques
iii ability to instruct the essential skills
of winter navigation
iv provide an enjoyable, safe and instructive
experience to novice climbers on snow and ice climbs up to Grade
II standard
v demonstrate an understanding of snow and
avalanche conditions
vi show a clear understanding of the requirements
of the Winter ML scheme and demonstrate the ability to instruct
and assess to the required standards of the scheme
Appendix I - EXPERIENCE
Candidates often experience some difficulty when compiling their
logbooks and registration forms in trying to determine whether
or not they meet the experience requirements of the various training
schemes.
The Mountain Instructor scheme is UK orientated, and so all of
the experience recorded should reflect this. Whilst experience
gained trekking or climbing in, for example, the High Atlas mountains
is undoubtedly valuable, it is not necessarily the most appropriate
experience for the Mountain Instructor scheme. The Board is looking
for both depth and breadth of experience since candidates who
have only the minimum experience are unlikely to benefit from
either the training or assessment course.
Appendix II - QUALITY MOUNTAIN DAYS
As a general guide, candidates for the Mountain Instructor scheme
should have completed the requisite number of mountain days and
these should be substantive days out. Whilst a traverse of the
Pennine Way, for example, may provide some appropriate experience
it is unlikely that a candidate who has only led groups in the
low fells and on way-marked paths would meet the rigorous demands
of the courses. At the same time however, it is not necessarily
true to say that experience can only be gained on the highest
peaks. In general, quality mountain days should contain elements
of planning, exploration and navigation; they should be strenuous
and reasonably demanding; ideally they will be on unfamiliar terrain
which will necessitate the use of map and compass; and perhaps
most importantly, the end result will give a sense of achievement,
satisfaction and enjoyment.
Under winter conditions, the intensive nature of the experience,
the demands it makes on fitness and the need to navigate accurately
and safely over the chosen route in adverse weather conditions
present a challenge that requires the instructor to have knowledge
and experience above that normally required in summer.
Examples of quality days may be found in many books on mountain
walking. A short bibliography would include SMC District Guides,
The Scottish Peaks (Poucher), The Big Walks, Classic Walks, Wild
Walks (Wilson & Gilbert), The Ridges of Snowdonia (Ashton),
100 Best Routes on Scottish Mountains (Storer)
Appendix III FIRST AID QUALIFICATIONS
Prior to attendance on an assessment course candidates must hold a valid first aid
qualification. Courses must be delivered by a Health and Safety Executive approved
provider, must involve at least sixteen hours of instruction, include an element of
assessment and cover basic life support and emergency aid.
Any alternative certificate or qualification which is held may
be offered as a substitute, provided the approval of the Board
Secretary is obtained.
In addition, candidates must undertake such additional elements of first aid training as are consistent with their work in wild and remote country, inclusing emergency assistance and evacuation techniques. It is the responsibility of award holders to evaluate their likely work and the type of situations that they can reasonably expect to encounter and to maintain curent appropriate first aid training and qualifications.
Appendix IV - DEFINITION OF SUMMER AND
WINTER
Winter: Winter means when winter conditions, including snow and
ice, prevail or are forecast. This cannot be defined by a portion
of the year.
Summer: Any conditions not covered under winter.
